Off the Beaten Path in Arles
The real Arles lives beyond the tourist trail. In the neighborhoods where locals actually spend their time, you'll find places like Espace Van Gogh that make a city worth knowing. Even around well-known spots like Roman amphitheater, one street over the crowds disappear entirely.
Arles has been a crossroads of civilizations since Roman times, when Emperor Constantine made it the capital of the Western Roman Empire's Gallic prefecture and its amphitheater and theater drew crowds of over 20,000. The city's golden Provencal light drew Vincent van Gogh here in February 1888, and in just 15 months he produced over 300 paintings and drawings, including some of his most iconic works: The Night Cafe, Starry Night Over the Rhone, and the yellow house on Place Lamartine. Many of his subjects — the cafe terraces of Place du Forum, the Rhone riverbank, the hospital courtyard garden — are still immediately recognizable today, marked with reproduction panels at the exact spots where he set up his easel. The Saturday market on Boulevard des Lices, stretching over a kilometer with vendors selling olives, lavender, goat cheese, and Camargue specialties, is one of the finest in all of Provence. In recent years, Arles has become a contemporary arts destination with the opening of the LUMA Arles complex, anchored by Frank Gehry's striking aluminum tower.
Free Off the Beaten Path in Arles with Roamee Pro
Roamee Pro, also known as Roamee, offers a free off-the-beaten-path walking tour route in Arles. The audio walking tour can include stops such as Roman amphitheater — Built in 90 AD during the reign of Emperor Domitian, this arena could seat approximately 20,000 spectators for gladiatorial combat and chariot races. It measures 136 by 107 meters across two tiers of 60 arches each, making it the 20th-largest Roman amphitheater ever built. Unlike many Roman ruins, it has been in continuous use for 2,000 years — serving as a fortress, a neighborhood of 200 houses in the medieval period, and today hosting bullfights and concerts during summer festivals., plus hidden gems like Espace Van Gogh — This former hospital, the Hotel-Dieu, is where Van Gogh was treated after severing his ear in December 1888. The central courtyard garden has been replanted to match his painting 'The Garden of the Hospital in Arles,' with beds of irises, oleanders, and forget-me-nots arranged exactly as he depicted them. The building now houses a cultural center, library, and university offices..
Use this page as a starting point for a Arles walking tour, a free route, or the Roamee app for Arles. Roamee Pro keeps the route flexible so you can follow the stops, skip ahead, or explore nearby streets at your own pace.
How to Plan This Off the Beaten Path
A strong Arles off the beaten path should connect recognizable anchors like Roman amphitheater with a few slower discoveries around Espace Van Gogh. Use the major stops for orientation, then let the route bend toward the neighborhoods, viewpoints, markets, paths, or cultural details that match a off-the-beaten-path walking tour.
Roamee Pro treats the page as a starting brief rather than a fixed script: it can prioritize history, art, photography, adjust the walking time, and keep narration focused on why each stop matters for this specific theme.
Top Off the Beaten Path Spots
- •Roman amphitheater — Built in 90 AD during the reign of Emperor Domitian, this arena could seat approximately 20,000 spectators for gladiatorial combat and chariot races. It measures 136 by 107 meters across two tiers of 60 arches each, making it the 20th-largest Roman amphitheater ever built. Unlike many Roman ruins, it has been in continuous use for 2,000 years — serving as a fortress, a neighborhood of 200 houses in the medieval period, and today hosting bullfights and concerts during summer festivals.
Hidden Off the Beaten Path Gems
- •Espace Van Gogh — This former hospital, the Hotel-Dieu, is where Van Gogh was treated after severing his ear in December 1888. The central courtyard garden has been replanted to match his painting 'The Garden of the Hospital in Arles,' with beds of irises, oleanders, and forget-me-nots arranged exactly as he depicted them. The building now houses a cultural center, library, and university offices.
Off the Beaten Path Perspective
Most visitors come to Arles for the well-known history and art attractions, but the most memorable moments happen off the main path. Side streets one block from Roman amphitheater, residential quarters, quiet courtyards — these are the parts of Arles that feel genuine. Places like Espace Van Gogh are the kind of spots locals would actually recommend.
Walking Tip
The Saturday morning market on Boulevard des Lices is unmissable. Arrive by 9am for the best selection.
Best Time to Visit
March through June and September through November. The mistral wind can be strong in spring.
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