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Èze, France
Èze is one of the most dramatically sited villages on the French Riviera. Clinging to a rocky peak high above the coast, this fortified medieval village dates to the early Middle Ages, its narrow lanes and stone staircases virtually unchanged since the 14th century. At the summit, the Jardin Exotique occupies the ruins of a fortress destroyed by Louis XIV in 1706, its terraces now planted with cacti and succulents from around the world, offering unobstructed views from Italy to the Esterel massif. Friedrich Nietzsche walked the steep path from the coastal hamlet of Èze-sur-Mer to the hilltop village repeatedly during winters in the 1880s — the trail that now bears his name is said to have inspired passages of the third part of Thus Spoke Zarathustra. The village itself is entirely pedestrianized: vaulted passageways open onto tiny squares, stone facades draped in jasmine and bougainvillea hide artisan galleries and ceramics workshops, and the 18th-century Église Notre-Dame de l'Assomption anchors the village with its baroque yellow facade and distinctive clock tower. The Fragonard perfume factory, housed at the base of the village, offers free guided tours of its production process — Fragonard has been making perfume in Provence since 1926. Below the village, the coastline at Èze-sur-Mer offers rocky swimming coves and a quieter alternative to the crowded beaches of Nice, connected to the hilltop by the steep Nietzsche Path.
explore by interest
Start from Èze-sur-Mer and hike the Chemin de Nietzsche uphill — it takes about 45 minutes and is steep but well-maintained. Arriving at the village from below is far more dramatic than driving to the top. Wear sturdy shoes and bring water.
April through June and September through October offer mild weather and manageable crowds. July and August bring heavy tourist traffic to the narrow lanes. Winter is quiet and clear, with some of the best visibility for coastal views.