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Coimbra, Portugal
Coimbra has been the intellectual heart of Portugal for over 700 years. The University of Coimbra, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in 1290, sits atop the old town hill, and its Joanina Library — a Baroque masterpiece of gilded wood and painted ceilings where bats protect the books from insects — is one of Europe's most beautiful rooms. Students still wear black academic capes (capas) in a tradition dating back centuries, and the Coimbra fado — distinct from Lisbon's version, traditionally sung only by men — echoes from the old town's narrow streets. The Machado de Castro Museum, built above a Roman cryptoporticus, houses an excellent art collection. The Se Velha (Old Cathedral) is a robust Romanesque fortress-church, and the botanical garden offers peaceful shaded walks. The steep old town rewards walkers who tackle its hills with views over the Mondego River and the new town below.
explore by interest
The old town is very steep — work your way uphill to the university first, then explore downward through the medieval streets, saving your knees.
May through June is best, when university celebrations (Queima das Fitas) fill the streets, and the weather is warm without summer heat.