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Berat, Albania
Berat earns its nickname from the rows of Ottoman houses with large windows stacked up the hillside, creating a striking visual pattern. The city has three historic quarters: Mangalem and Gorica facing each other across the Osum River, and the Kalaja (castle) quarter at the summit, where people still live inside the medieval fortress walls. The Onufri Museum inside the castle holds works by the 16th-century master Onufri, whose use of a vivid red pigment whose formula remains a mystery. Berat's combination of Ottoman domestic architecture and Byzantine religious art is unique in the Balkans.
explore by interest
The climb to the castle is steep but rewarded with panoramic views. The classic Thousand Windows photo is best taken from the Gorica side of the river. Allow a half day for the castle quarter and museums.
April through October. Spring and early fall are ideal. Summer is hot but the altitude provides some relief. The town is quieter and less visited than Gjirokastra.