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Belgrade, Serbia
Belgrade is not polished, and that is exactly its appeal. The Kalemegdan Fortress, perched above the confluence of the Danube and Sava, has been fought over by Romans, Ottomans, Austrians, and Serbs, and walking its ramparts at sunset is one of Europe's great free experiences. Knez Mihailova, the pedestrian main street, connects the fortress to Republic Square and the National Museum. Skadarlija, Belgrade's bohemian quarter modeled on Montmartre, serves hearty Serbian cuisine with live music. But Belgrade really comes alive at night — the floating river clubs (splavovi) along the Sava and the underground bars in Savamala make it one of Europe's best nightlife cities. Across the river, New Belgrade's brutalist architecture and the Museum of Contemporary Art offer a different perspective.
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Belgrade's nightlife starts very late — restaurants fill up after 9pm and clubs do not get going until midnight, so plan your walking schedule accordingly.
May through September offers warm weather and outdoor riverside culture, with summer festivals drawing international crowds.